Also consider setting the blade at a 5 degree angle to undercut the panel slightly. You could also use a circular saw straight cut jig for this step, or a jigsaw. You can see how it cut very close to the line at the bottom, but further away at the top. I lined up my track saw rail with the high points, making sure it didn't cross the line anywhere, and trimmed off the excess. I cut the top and bottom edges first, then worked on the wonky wall side. Now that we know the contours of the wall, we need to cut the end panel to fit. Don't mark the top of the cabinet box until the floor side has been cut to fit, or the top might turn out crooked. The Simple Scribe was much easier to keep flat against the wall, and I didn't waste as much plywood cutting to the line.įor the base cabinets, I scribed to the floor as well. I tested out the Profiler+ on the left end panel.Īnd the Simple Scribe on the right. Run the scribing tool along the wall while drawing the same contours onto the front of the plywood. This one is better suited for scribing brick, trim or other irregular shapes. I found that this simple scribing tool was easier to use, and doesn't waste as much material. I tried out two different scribing tools for this project. You can see where the end panel is tight against the wall in some spots and gaps in others.įirst, I scribed the underside and the top edge by tracing where the cabinet meets the end panel.
I used ¾" birch plywood, which I cut 2" wider and 2" longer than the side of the cabinet (including the doors).Ĭlamp the end panel to the side of the cabinet box with an inch or so hanging off the bottom. Start by cutting the end panel a few inches larger than the area you need to cover.
#Cabinet scribe thickness how to#
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